Laying The Foundation
When applied properly a foundation can hide blemishes, smooth your skin tone, and give your face a healthy glow. However, choosing the product that suits your skin type is crucial. When I apply makeup on someone with oily skin for example, I choose my product accordingly. If I were to use a foundation that didn’t match a skin type, we may end up with a blotchy unbalanced appearance from the mixture of the individuals’ natural oils with the makeup.
Foundation makeup is the one product you don’t want to go cheap on when it comes to quality. The ingredients matter and the purer they are, the higher the quality the pigments will be. This means they will last longer on your skin and be more expensive……but it’s worth it! You want your foundation to give the illusion of beautiful healthy skin that has no makeup product applied at all, so don’t skimp on the expense.
Types of Foundation Forms
I only use a stick foundation (which is basically a crème packed in an applicator) when maximum coverage is needed. When you only require a lighter coverage, like with clear skin, a stick application will look unnecessarily heavy.
This is the most versatile of the foundation products and specifically applicable to skin that is in the dry to normal range. Although it tends to be thick it can be feathered down to a thinner consistency by using one of the brushes seen below. I would tend to use the smaller one around the eyes and the larger on forehead, cheekbones and under the jaw. These brushes are probably the most versatile brushes in my 12-piece set and I’ll be illustrating their uses more in this book. The larger brush I refer to as the angled blush brush, and the other image are the two Dome brushes.
*Tip:With the thicker crèmes it is better to first apply with a sponge and then add the finishing touches with your brush
I recommend using this foundation type when you don’t have the time for a crème foundation process but want more than just a tinted moisturizer. Oil-free as well as oil absorbent formulas are readily available and well suited to virtually all skin types.
The liquid foundations come in a variety of forms such as oil-free Matte-finish, long-wearing Matte-finish, and Moisturizing liquid. You can determine which one is best for you depending on your skin type. As far as which brush in your new set is the best to use, it depends on the area of your face you are applying it to.
When I need to apply crème or liquid makeup with precision as I would with eyeliner, I’ll use this Eyeliner Brush.
This foundation type is a favorite of mine because of its exceptional coverage .It will penetrate into the skin rather than sitting on the surface, thus presenting a natural look. This crème foundation has a remarkable effect on mature skin because of its unique properties.
I would recommend using this when you just want to throw something up quickly. It’s actually just a moisturizer with a bit of tinted color added so it might come in handy on a hot summer day when a full makeup might be uncomfortable.
Used for sheer to medium coverage, this powder foundation is great for touch up when you’re’ on the move. As it is low in oils, it doesn’t clog up pores making it great for girls and younger women. You can feather it in with the angled blush brush for sheer coverage. You can also consider using a Pigmented Mineral Powder which contains vitamins and minerals that are healthy for your skin and can be applied with the large foundation stippling brush seen below.
Concealers come in a variety of textures to hide the problem areas that may need to be concealed. The bristles of your brushes were designed to get thoroughly down into the grooves of blemishes.
*Tip: When applying to pimples,
make sure your product contains salicylic acid as this will help prevent the blemish from coming back.
Since the pimple is a raised area, you want to make it less visible and flusher to the skin and therefore less visible. When you make something lighter it gives the effect that it’s closer and more noticeable, so you don’t want to use a light concealer for a blemish. In this case I will match the concealer color to the skin tone or even a little darker (unless there is no foundation in which case it needs to be exactly to the skin color).
This approach also applies to concealer under the eyes. If you have bags under your eyes then using a light color is going to make the bags look more prominent. So stick to your own skin tone or slightly darker.
Not everybody likes to contour their makeup under the cheek bones but if you do, I like using the large Foundation Stippling Brush for that because with its rounded soft shape allows you to get up under the cheekbones effectively without leaving a streak across the area above your jawbone.
I find that the stick concealers are hard to use for blending applications, especially under the eye areas. When I’m applying makeup with a stick concealer I stick to prominent areas like the cheeks, forehead, etc. for hiding flaws like blemishes.
I prefer the pot concealer to the stick applicator because of the moisturizing agents in its creamy formula. The pot application gives great coverage and is available in dry oil-free formulas as well.
I’ll go with a tube concealer under the eyes because I find it easier to use for blending in smaller areas. Since it has such a light texture it doesn’t collect in the fine lines of mature skin like most creamy concealers do.
I’ll use a wand concealer to smooth over skin tones when there is no foundation applied. I find that it easily blends into bare skin and comes in handy when a quick on-the-go concealer is needed.
When I need to cover up small-scale flaws, I go with a pencil concealer. So for broken capillaries or small blemishes I’ll simply draw over the flaw with a pencil brush. What most people don’t realize is that the smaller of your two pencil brushes can also be used to conceal border lines on your lips.
Most makeup brush sets come with these two pencil brushes that have a small plastic tip protector.
I’ll use this concealer to hide flaws like age spots and pimples. This kind of formula performs best for these because it lasts longer than most other creams.
*Tip: This is the best overall tip I can give you for makeup applications. You will no doubt watch lots of you tube videos looking for ideas on how to get that celebrity look you saw and want for yourself. There’s nothing wrong with that, I do it all the time myself. However, you’ll want to pay close attention to what YOU specifically need for YOUR own personal skin features. Everybody’s skin chemistry is a little bit different and we all have our own issues and needs. So always try and match your own skin type and tones when choosing your cosmetic products, especially the concealers and foundations.
I always finish up a makeup application with powders, especially when my customer has oily skin. I prefer a “loose” powder though a “compressed” powder comes in handy for travel needs because it’s more convenient to carry around.
This part of the makeup process is critical for the stability of your makeup helping the skin to look smooth and natural throughout the day.
The powder choices I discuss below are best applied with the large foundation brush below, but I sometimes use the fan brush in situations where I need a delicate touch, and for finishing off my makeup application.
You will find that the finer powders are going to be a little more expensive, but well worth it as they will absorb the oils in the skin more effectively and they won’t cake on the skin like the more gritty granular powders.